Silk Organza Jacket. The Making

This organza jacket took shape while talking to a lovely client who wanted a golden toned outfit for a summer time wedding. She also expressed her preference for separate pieces that she can later combine in different ways. This is indeed a great idea and these versatile organza blouses can transform an outfit completely.

Silk organza jacket with hand painted elements

Since we were designing something from zero - and with so many options available in terms of details - we first started off with two types of silhouettes that she was fond of and the fabrics that were available for these. In the end, we settled for a Dior inspired appearance, a jacket with big puffy sleeves and a full tea length skirt made in taffeta.

After picking the beige organza, she allowed me to come up with the all the design details for the blouse and I greatly appreciated her trust. She also supplied some pictures of flowers and plants that she would like incorporated into the painting. I found myself quite inspired by them and even used them to decorate future items.

To match the big sleeves I thought of a wide collar, raised at the nape and made in a double layer of organza , so that it would make the front not as see-through as the rest of the blouse. The other parts were to be covered by painting.

The elements I wanted for this jacket were somewhat new to me and after making the pattern I proceeded with cutting and sewing a first sample. This will be used as a base for future adjustments. The garment turned out as envisioned but I did feel like the collar should stay more raised at the back so the pattern was changed a little at this stage.

After cutting the silk organza layers, the wide collar is sewn and the front part of the jacket is completed.

Next were the sleeves. Because the painting will be concentrated near the cuff, where the fabric will be gathered, this will have to be done before any sewing occurs. Little roses, linden flowers, ears of wheat, cherry flowers and leafs, all took their place on the big circumference of the organza sleeves.

The different flowers being painted onto the beige organza.

Painting both sleeves all around before attaching the cuffs.

For this blouse, only french seams were used to attach the different parts. This technique allows for the edges to be incorporated into the seam so nothing shows through the organza.

Moreover, the hem requires patience and is made by sewing once, cutting as close as possible to the seam and then rolling the edge again and sewing it in place. All this achieves a finished look on the inside of the jacket, not just the outside, a prerequisite of a beautifully crafted garment.

The inside of the organza jacket